View Stubbie’s Album It amazes me that we keep having this discussion brought up about the bare in a NM-b cable being capable of being a neutral just like an SE cable using its bare for a neutral. I’m not sure what consensus we are supposed to reach? Current can use the bare of an NM-b just as well as the bare of a SE cable. So I hope those who bring this up are not suggesting that if you happen to have a 3 wire nm-b don’t sweat it if you use the bare for your neutral on 3 wire range and dryer hookups. I think we have all agreed this is a code violation. BTW the liabilty would be huge if do this and it comes back on you. As for 3 wire connections I visited the consumer products page for electrocutions in the home and last year deaths occurred from electrocution. If you can imagine this requires a little ingenuity getting that concentric neutral connected to the terminal of the appliance not to mention the hots. These connections are very iffy at best IMO.

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Sending Unit Extension Water Temp Sending unit The ‘new’ dash unit – ’66 gauge clusters used to be a dime a dozen at the swap meets. They were the bait that the vendor uses to tell you what kind of car he’s parted out and is selling. They can run anywhere from five to fifty bucks for the exact same unit. They are getting increasingly harder to find. EBAY regularly has them posted and typically go for between 20 and 40 depending on condition.

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Share Save Wireless enthusiasts have been repurposing satellite dishes for a couple years now. This summer the longest link ever was established over miles using old 12 foot and 10 foot satellite dishes. A dish that big is usually overkill for most people and modern mini-dishes work just as well. The dish helps focus the radio waves onto a directional antenna feed.

We’re building a biquad antenna feed because it offers very good performance and is pretty forgiving when it comes to assembly errors. Follow along as we assemble the feed, attach it to a DirecTV dish and test out its performance. With just a handful of cheap parts, a salvaged DirecTV dish and a little soldering, we were able to detect access points from over 8 miles away. Using consumer WiFi gear we picked up over 18 APs in an area with only 1 house per square mile.

Building the antenna Biquad antennas can be built from common materials, which is nice because you don’t have to scrounge around for the perfectly-sized soup can. We did have to buy some specialized parts before getting started though. The most important part here is the small silver panel mount N-connector in the center of the picture; the entire antenna will be built on this.

We purchased it from S. The “N-connector” is standard across the majority of commercial antennas and you can connect them to your wireless devices using “pigtails. We also purchased 10 feet of WBC coax cable so we wouldn’t have to sit with the dish in our lap.

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Not only did we want an easy to install harness, we wanted it to virtually be plug and play in less than an hour. While the trailer wire is so expensive, it isn’t even the correct wire guage size, making connections to switches and splicing to your oem harness troublesome. We have come up with a complete harness made up of cross linked wire the same wire colors and wire guage size as OEM that not only looks great but functions phenominally.

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The following instructions are for creating a MegaSquirt to Relay Board cable. It is for those who are creating their own harness. With both boxes mounted, measure the distance between them from DB connector to DB connector – this will be the length that you will cut the individual wires. If you are not using a Relay Board, allow enough length in each of your wires to reach the target component.

It is often better to be too long and trim afterwards, than to be too short and have to splice additional lengths on. For a Relay Board cable, you can move both heat shrink pieces to the center of the wire length, and then twisting the center of the wire with a few twists to hold the heat shrink in place, so that it does not fall off the wire or run down while soldering the connection.

For a pigtail, you can slip the heat shrink tubing on later. Orient them so that both are facing the same way, with pins 1 – 19 closest to you. You will definitely want something to hold the connector, since as you attach more wires it wants to move around more, while at the same time you have less room to solder.

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Products are designed for clamping and holding parts while a secondary operation is performed through the open center. A typical application is where a flexible diaphragm is clamped between two metal retainers while a rivet or other form of fastener is added to the assembly thru the open center. The product line includes seven sizes from three inch O.

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The first is the hot water, which usually comes via an outlet on the shutoff valve for the kitchen sink faucet. The second connection is the drain, which empties into a special fitting on the sink drain tailpiece. The third connection is the electrical one, and whether you make a permanent, hard-wired connection or install a plug and receptacle is up to you.

Dishwasher Electrical Connections A dishwasher runs on volt power, and the terminals for the electrical connections are behind it, near the floor. You may see a brass screw — designed for the hot wire — and a silver one for the neutral wire. Or you may see a black hot wire and a white neutral one. The ground connection is usually a green grounding screw. You have the option of connecting a pigtail — a wire with a plug on the other end — or of connecting the terminals permanently to the circuit wires in the wall, which is called hard-wiring.

Using a Pigtail When you install a pigtail on your dishwasher, you must plug it into a three-prong receptacle.


You can be injured or killed! Improper installations can cause fire, injury and death! Should you be doing this yourself? This is one of the most commonly asked questions in FAQ forums about electricity and wiring. It must be understood that new appliances will be designed to meet the newest standards. It is not reasonable to expect someone to rewire their home because they need a new dryer or range!

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Replacing a Breaker in Your Panel By Terry Peterman, the Internet Electrician Circuit Breakers A breaker is designed to protect your wires from carrying too much current, and to trip off on an overload or a short circuit. That is why proper sizing of breakers is so important i. Never oversize a breaker to solve a tripping breaker problem! The first question to ask yourself is — Why am I replacing this breaker?

If you are adding a circuit, and now need to install the breaker, then this of course is necessary. The situation that I run into a lot is people wanting to replace a breaker because they think that it is faulty, or has failed, or trips off too often. Not that breakers don’t sometimes fail, but more often than not, the breaker is just doing what it’s supposed to do, and the problem causing the breaker to trip needs to be rectified first.

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What you are experiancing is the alternator feeding back into the ignition. I’m not familar yet with the starting and charging system on the S30, but I am very familar with the GM starting and charging systems. The stud on the back of the alternator is the charge stud and must be connected to the battery. In older GMs this stud was attached to the starter batter terminal through a fuseable link, newer GMs it is attached to the underhood fuse box through a fuse to the main battery input terminal.

The Red wire is a “sense” wire that the regulator uses to sense the actual charge voltage to adjust the alternator output.

BY FAR the simplest, cheapest, fastest, easiest way to go is to just go buy a range pigtail for the dryer — five minutes tops to remove the dryer pigtail and replace it, and the job is done.. Electrical appliances are not force-fed current; they draw it. Can you hook up a volt electric range to a .

One early source claims that his surname was Drummond, but the lack of any supporting documentation makes this unlikely. Pirates habitually used fictitious surnames while engaged in piracy, so as not to tarnish the family name, and this makes it unlikely that Teach’s real name will ever be known. He could almost certainly read and write; he communicated with merchants and when killed had in his possession a letter addressed to him by the Chief Justice and Secretary of the Province of Carolina , Tobias Knight.

The author Robert Lee speculated that Teach may therefore have been born into a respectable, wealthy family. The privateer-turned-pirate Henry Jennings and his followers decided, early in the 18th century, to use the uninhabited island of New Providence as a base for their operations; it was within easy reach of the Florida Strait and its busy shipping lanes, which were filled with European vessels crossing the Atlantic.

New Providence’s harbour could easily accommodate hundreds of ships but was too shallow for the Royal Navy ‘s larger vessels to navigate. The author George Woodbury described New Providence as “no city of homes; it was a place of temporary sojourn and refreshment for a literally floating population,” continuing, “The only permanent residents were the piratical camp followers, the traders, and the hangers-on; all others were transient. Probably shortly after the signing of the Treaty of Utrecht , he moved there from Jamaica, and, along with most privateers once involved in the war, became involved in piracy.

Possibly about , he joined the crew of Captain Benjamin Hornigold, a renowned pirate who operated from New Providence’s safe waters. In Hornigold placed Teach in charge of a sloop he had taken as a prize. Teach and his quartermaster, William Howard, [nb 1] may at this time have struggled to control their crews. In a report made by a Captain Mathew Munthe on an anti-piracy patrol for North Carolina, “Thatch” was described as operating “a sloop 6 gunns [ sic ] and about 70 men”.

The pirates’ flotilla now consisted of three ships; Teach on Revenge, Teach’s old sloop and Hornigold’s Ranger.

Range Receptacle Wiring